Wednesday 22 February 2012

A tiny art gallery, and a huge museum

Several weeks have again raced by without me posting anything which is pretty rubbish really. In my defence, I have been doing quite a lot of writing, it's just not been for the blog! This is another lazy post in that it's made up of two articles that I wrote for the same travel website as the sumo article (japantourist.jp). I'm really enjoying doing these articles. The research for them is allowing me to continue discovering new parts of Tokyo, as well as re-visiting places I first went to six months ago. It's very interesting to see how both the places and I have changed in that time. Anyway, your comments would be very much appreciated so let me know what you think!


Space Oguraya

It is easy to forget you are in one of the world’s busiest cities during a visit to Space Oguraya, a tiny arts and crafts gallery opposite a serene Buddhist temple on one of Yanaka’s many picturesque, winding streets. At first glance, with its black walls and rusting corrugated iron tower, the gallery looks a little uninviting. But persevere through the door and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the homely, rickety entrance hall full of paintings that lies on the other side. Often the gallery owner, Takao Itoh, will be there greeting visitors, asking you to remove your shoes and replace them with a pair of quaint floral slippers provided in a basket in the hall.


Slightly forbidding from the outside...
...but homely and welcoming inside.

Many of the works on display are by Itoh-san’s mother, Toshi Itoh. Hanging in the entrance is an atmospheric winter’s day view of the temple gate opposite. Itoh-san told me that his mother painted it while looking out of the upstairs window in the gallery. The tiny dog that is just visible was the temple’s guard dog, barking loudly at passers-by but never venturing beyond the line of the gate.



Yanaka in Winter by Toshi Ito
Temple's Gate in Autumn by Toshi Ito


Other paintings at Space Oguraya are by Japanese and foreign artists, and there are often small displays of origami and other Japanese crafts. The exhibitions change with the seasons although there are always some of Toshi Itoh’s works on display. There’s also a well-stocked shop where you can pick up prints and postcards of some of the gallery’s holdings.



Interesting art in a beautiful setting

While you’re in the area it’s worth crossing the road to have a closer look at the temple opposite; it’s inspiring in its peacefulness. Also, spend some time just wandering around the tiny streets to see what other surprises might be there – more temples than you can count and several other small art galleries quietly wait to welcome the visitor who prefers their sites off the beaten track.



The entrance to the temple opposite Space Oguraya

For me it’s not the art, although interesting, that keeps me returning to Space Oguraya; it’s the feeling of the place. In the wooden walls and creaking floorboards, in the experience of shuffling around in slippers, and in Itoh-san’s stories, there is a little bit of Yanaka magic just waiting to be discovered.




Tokyo National Museum

If you’re looking for a historical treasure-trove of Japanese arts that will give you an overview of some of the most important and influential techniques, products and traditions to come out of Japan, Tokyo National Museum is the place for you.



Amazingly beautiful 16th century screen
19th century parody of the twelve months

The permanent collection, located in the Honkan (Japanese Gallery) is brought together under the title, Highlights of Japanese Art. The information tells visitors they are about to embark on a “cultural journey through time” and the gallery lives up to this claim. The earliest items in the collection are clay pots and jars from the Jomon Period (10,000-500 BC). From there you are taken on a whistlestop tour that ends up in the current Heisei Era, having touched on everything in between. There is plenty of English around on the labels in the galleries, as well as guides and maps in English, French, German, Spanish, Chinese and Korean so it’s easily navigable by foreign visitors.



16th century picture of
the moon and a plum tree

Even in this collection of highlights there are some things that particularly stand out: the kimonos and lacquer-ware items show off the tremendous skill of the artists through their tiny and beautiful details; the samurai armour and swords are fascinating for their precision and the air of danger that hovers around them; the 1000-armed Buddhas are awe-inspiring in their craftsmanship and serenity.



15th century samurai armour
Intricate detail on a 19th century kimono


In addition to the permanent displays in the Honkan, there is also a programme of small, thematic, temporary exhibitions. These showcase items belonging to a particular collector, or a collection that is relevant to a specific time of year (for example Hina Matsuri – Doll Festival – on 3rd March). Then there is the huge special exhibitions gallery, the Heiseikan, which houses a large archaeological collection, as well as being the location for the major temporary exhibitions that the museum hosts. Recent shows have looked at Buddhism, the relationship between Chinese and Japanese art, and manga, with forthcoming exhibitions scheduled to focus on calligraphy, Chinese dynasties, and sacred Japanese treasures.


Seated Nyoirinkanan Bosatsu from the 13th century


Tokyo National Museum also includes the Hyokeikan and Toyokan buildings, both of which are currently closed for renovations, but scheduled to open again in 2013. Even without these two exhibition areas, the museum is definitely worth a visit.

Spend some time just sitting in the galleries taking everything in. The low lighting and near silence create an atmosphere perfect for contemplation of the beautiful objects, many of which have been designated as National Treasures or Important Cultural Property. These artefacts are not just important to the cultural heritage of Japan, but to that of the whole world. A visit to Tokyo National Museum is an uplifting and inspiring reminder of the beautiful creations of which people are capable and it is well worth half a day of your time.



Inspiring 20th century statue of Kannon

またね!

1 comment:

  1. Great post.... you are doing such interesting things !

    ReplyDelete